Huayhuash Circuit - June/July 2006

This was an Exodus trekking holiday including a 12 day trek round the Huayhuash mountain range in Peru. The day references match the Trip Notes for this trek.

It was a camping trek. We were a mixed group of 7 trekkers, having an Exodus leader, Pepe, and a local guide, Guio, also the cook Victor, his assistant Jose, chief muleteer Rossolino, assistant muleteers Oliveiro amd Jaime. 20 donkeys carried the gear. Two horses were there in case any of us trekkers needed a bit of help. We managed without. A great time was had by all. The trekkers were Andy, Jens, Peter, Roland, Sean, Stefan, and Viv.

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Trek Summary

The Huayhuash range is in a remote part of Northen Peru. First we have to get to the trekking start point. The circuit trek can be divided into three parts, the North-East section, the South section, and the West section, and then we have to make our journey back. The photos are organised accordingly.

Days 1 to 4 - Getting to Llamac where we start walking

Day 1 was on the plane from Heathrow to Lima, via Madrid. Day 2 was a long 9-hour drive from Lima to Huarez, mostly in a northerly direction. The first half of day 3 was spent in Huarez, a moderate sized city about 3000 meters high. In the afternoon we use the coach to drive further into the mountains to Chiquian, a large village. Day 4 includes a coach ride on very rough roads, to arrive at Llamac where the circuit begins. In the afternoon we go for a short walk to see some ancient rock drawings.

This is a taster from day 2 as we drive to Huarez. The mountains are in the Cordilliera Blanca, a large range just north of Cordilliera Huayhuash.
St Francis (with his llama) is a favourite saint of these parts.

The morning of day 3. From the hotel roof we get a view of Mt Huascarez, in Cordilliera Blanca, the highest mountain in the world in the tropics.
On day 4, this is an early view of the Huayhuash range.

The intrepid trekker sizes up the task, and is ready.
On the way to Llamac we are treated to an unusual and very bright rainbow, which we see below us in the valley.

Llamac appears in the valley below. This is where the walking will start.
The camp site at Llamac, where we were able to play football with the muleteers, and frisbee with the local children.

Pepe, on the left, is our trek leader. Guio, on the right, is our local guide. Both are very experienced, and contibute greatly to making this an excellent trek.
As our first legstretch we visit a burial site with ancient drawings on the rocks. These come from pre-Inca times.

Burial bones.

Days 5 to 8 - North-Eastern part of the circuit

Day 5. After leaving Llamac we continue on the road, gradually gaining height. The next and last village we see for 12 days is Pocpa.
Some of the children from Pocpa. They never begged for money, but did ask for caramellos (sweets).

At the lower levels, the valleys are green, and have plenty of livestock.
We continue on the road all day 5. Some of the group reflect on the walk so far.

We continue to gain height...
... Until we start seeing the snow clad tops of the range.

The striking colours here come from minerals. The road we walk was built to service this copper, zinc, and silver mine.
The layering of the rocks in the mountains is extremely varied, and always interesting.

We camp on the grass meadows of the valley, in a place called Cuartelwain. Our height is now 4150 meters.
Looking back down the valley, from the camp site.

Looking up to the peaks Rondoy (5870 m) and Ninashanca (5607 m), from the camp site.
Another look back at 'Copper' mountain, before we go over our first mountain pass.

Celebrating the brow of the first pass, Cacanampunta, 4650 meters. This pass is on the continental divide, so from now on the rivers all flow into the river Amazon.
The camp sites were all on grass, in stunning settings. On day 6, this is at a place called Janca (4250 m). The mountains are Ninashanca, Rondoy, Jirishanca (6094 m) and El Toro (5965 m).

The mountains reflect in the calm waters of lake Mitococha at Janca.
Day 6 was a short day, allowing us some exploration of the area after lunch. Viv takes a ride on Sol de Oro (Golden Sun), guided by Zoro (chief muleteer). The rest of us walk.

The start of day 7, and a clearer view of mounts Ninashanca, Rondoy, Jirishanca, and El Toro, as we leave camp.
Even without the snow peaks, this is a beautiful peaceful place.

Top of Carhuac pass (4600 m) on day 7, and a partial view of Yerupaja, at 6634 meters the highest mountain in the Huayhuash, and second highest mountain in the world in the tropics.
Part the way down from Carhuac pass, and we meet our cooks, Victor facing the camera, and his assistant Jose, who have prepared lunch for us in the perfect place.

Perfect views of the mountains ...
... and down below us is lake Carhuacocha, by which our camp site is sited.

Peter Patton and I are off on a small (but fateful) detour, visiting a further glacial lake on our way to the camp site.
The camp site is at the far end of lake Carhuacocha, at the right.

We get a view of the large morraine, and a further lake to be visited tomorrow.
This isolated lake is next to the snout of the Yerupaja's eastern glacier.

That's me in front of the avalanche heap at the base of the glacier.
And this picture is actually taken from the avalanche heap itself.

The next part is not recorded in pictures. On the way back to camp, I try jumping across the substantial glacial stream, miss my footing, and end up in the drink with a minor gash to the leg. That will teach me !! maybe. The water also shorts my camera battery, so all photos from hereon are courtesy my co-trekker Peter Patton.
The sunsets were always worth watching, as the sun lingers on the mountain tops.

After sunset, we rely on the relative cosiness of the mess tent, where we take our evening meal about 7:00 pm, and usually card a game of cards or two afterwards.

Days 9 to 12 - Southern part of the circuit

Each day after we leave camp, about 7:30 am, the muleteers pack up the donkeys, and come after us. They soon catch up, and continue on to set up the next camp.
We don't pass many dwellings, but this is typical of a farmer's dwelling, who tends his cattle, and maybe fishes, in these winter months.

Day 9. We walk up another gorgeous valley towards the Carniceiro pass (4575 m).
... and take anothyer group photo.

Once over Carniceiro pass, thye views change again. This is a view of the Raura range, just East of the Huayhuash range.
In the Huayhuash range a new peak is very striking. Santa Rosa has an amazingly true pyramidal peak, from all directions.

More peaks from the Huayhuash.
This afternoon Jens and I take the opportunity with Pepe (pictured) to bathe in the local hot springs. This is a real treat. They mix the hot water with cold water to produce a large bathing area at normal hot bath temperature. Wonderful.

Day 10, and we climb yet another pass, the Cuyoc, which at 5030 meters is actually our highest point on the trek. Every pass provides new striking views of the mountains.
The way down may not look very steep, but it was hard to maintain your footing on the loose rubble of the path.

There's always something different in the rock formations. Just an odd outcrop on the way down.
We are heading for our next camp in the Guanacpata valley, at 4350 meters.

These are the Southern peaks of Huayhuash (Carnicero 5960m, Jurau 5674m, and Trapecio 5673m), as we walk up the valley towards lake Jurau.
The same peaks.

Another ice-laden peak, Sarapo (6127 m) comes into view as we go up the valley .
The tops of the ranges have fascinating detail in the way the ice forms in fluted layers.

This is our camp site near lake Jurau, where we stay for 2 nights.
Day 13. Officially a rest day, but never fear, we are off to see Joe Simpson's base camp site, and more to the point, some views of Siula Grande, the mountain he climbed, and then fell into one of its glaciers. This rock is where he made his base camp.

While Joe went to climb his mountain, instead we climbed a large morraine from which to obtain a good view.
The views of Siula Grande were terrific. Siula Grande is the smallish looking peak, dead centre, and is 6344m. The peak to the right is Siula Chico (6265m). Joe Simpson and Simon Yates descended the skyline ridge to the leftmost point, which is where Joe fell.

.. which is close to the right side of this picture. He fell into the glacier beneath, then eventually found his way out of his crevass, and crawled across the glacier, to return to his base camp, which is to the left of this picture.

Days 14 to 17 - Eastern part of the circuit

Day 16, and the Yaucha pass at 4800m. More unusual rock formations to be seen.
From the top of the pass we climb to a view point, for an amazing panorama of the northern Huayhuash peaks. This is Rondoy, 5870 meters.

Next is Jirishanca, 6094 meters.
.. then Jerupaja Chico, at 6089 meters.

.. then El Toro, at 5985 meters.
Turn around, and we can see in the distance the Cordilliera Blanco.

Back at the top of the pass, Jose is very dependable. He always has Sol de Oro with him in case anyone flags, but none of us had to go by horseback.
Day 17 is another rest day. In the early afternoon a treat is in store. A meal cooked in the earth is called a Pacha Manca (earth pot). It starts by heating stones in a fire.

The hot stones are reduced to a bottom layer, on which the potatoes are then placed.
The fresh lamb and chicken meat has been wrapped in foil, and is also placed among the hot stones.

Reeds, and cardboard are then placed above the food and stones.
Earth is heaped on to keep the whole oven hot.

This is done comprehensively, and the whole is allowed to cook for 50 minutes.
The earth is then cleanly removed.

.. to reveal the still hot stones, and the cooked meal.
It is apparently necessary to elect a Godfather to taste and approve the meat, before it can then be served. I'm the Godfather.

Sunset on the mountains. Lake Jahuacocha in the foreground.
The sun lights up the clouds even after the sun has set on the mountains.

We have one last pass, the Sambunya (4750 m) as we return towards Pocpa.
That's our last camp site down there near the mining road, where we started the circuit.

The return to Lima

Day 19. As we take the mining road away from Huayhuash, we get some fine views of the range as a whole, from the north.
Day 20. Now we have cleaned up, and enjoy a good meal out in Huarez.

Pepe takes us to see the Church of San Pedro. It has a very ornate baroque interior.
We also visit the Church of San Francisco and its extensive catacombs.

We see the striking statue of Peru's conqueror, Francisco Pizarro, which the government have moved from its central position to a site just outside the old city walls. Curiously, we also learn that the statue was actually of Don Cortez, but Pizarro was deemed to have looked much the same!
We also see the presidential palace.

.. where they make a fine ritual out of changing the guard, mid-day.

Children and other locals

The children were entirely happy to have their pictures taken,
... they enjoy seeing the pictures once you have taken them,

and enjoy being rewarded with a sweet or two.
More children.

The women often do their washing in the local streams.
The country women would usually dress traditionally, and would always be spinning cotton. they enjoy seeing the pictures once you have taken them,

Some of the fauna

Donkeys are the favourite beasts of burden in these parts, and they bear it well.
The cara cara is a small eagle, quite often seen at close quarters.

The condor will certainly be seen, though hard to photograph.
These are Andean geese.

This is an Andean ibis.
.. and this is the viscacha, a cross between a rabbit and a squirrel, living in among rocks around 4000 meters up.

There are plenty of mountain cows. Some get a bit of decoration.
These are egrets on the Pacific shore.

Some of the flora

Many flowers have no stems, so shine out straight from the ground, like this dandelion variety.
There is also a form of cacti which grows very close to the ground.

Some cacti are particularly spiky.
More normal cacti also grow in the lower elevations.

A pretty blue mountain flower.
The mountain lupins were particularly profuse at the right altitude, and gave a lovely scent to the air.

The quenoal tree is interesting. It is the highest growing tree in the world, forming forests up to 5000 meters above sea level. The red growth in the trees is actually a flowering parasite.

Trek Summary
The Huayhuash range is in a remote part of Northen Peru. First we have to get to the trekking start point. The circuit trek can be divided into three parts, the North-East section, the South section, and the West section, and then we have to make our journey back. The photos are organised accordingly.
Days 1 to 4 - Getting to Llamac where we start walking
Day 1 was on the plane from Heathrow to Lima, via Madrid. Day 2 was a long 9-hour drive from Lima to Huarez, mostly in a northerly direction. The first half of day 3 was spent in Huarez, a moderate sized city about 3000 meters high. In the afternoon we use the coach to drive further into the mountains to Chiquian, a large village. Day 4 includes a coach ride on very rough roads, to arrive at Llamac where the circuit begins. In the afternoon we go for a short walk to see some ancient rock drawings.
This is a taster from day 2 as we drive to Huarez. The mountains are in the Cordilliera Blanca, a large range just north of Cordilliera Huayhuash.			St Francis (with his llama) is a favourite saint of these parts.
The morning of day 3. From the hotel roof we get a view of Mt Huascarez, in Cordilliera Blanca, the highest mountain in the world in the tropics.			On day 4, this is an early view of the Huayhuash range.
The intrepid trekker sizes up the task, and is ready.			On the way to Llamac we are treated to an unusual and very bright rainbow, which we see below us in the valley.
Llamac appears in the valley below. This is where the walking will start.			The camp site at Llamac, where we were able to play football with the muleteers, and frisbee with the local children.
Pepe, on the left, is our trek leader. Guio, on the right, is our local guide. Both are very experienced, and contibute greatly to making this an excellent trek.			As our first legstretch we visit a burial site with ancient drawings on the rocks. These come from pre-Inca times.
Burial bones.
Days 5 to 8 - North-Eastern part of the circuit
Day 5. After leaving Llamac we continue on the road, gradually gaining height. The next and last village we see for 12 days is Pocpa.			Some of the children from Pocpa. They never begged for money, but did ask for caramellos (sweets).
At the lower levels, the valleys are green, and have plenty of livestock.			We continue on the road all day 5. Some of the group reflect on the walk so far.
We continue to gain height...			... Until we start seeing the snow clad tops of the range.
The striking colours here come from minerals. The road we walk was built to service this copper, zinc, and silver mine.			The layering of the rocks in the mountains is extremely varied, and always interesting.
We camp on the grass meadows of the valley, in a place called Cuartelwain. Our height is now 4150 meters.			Looking back down the valley, from the camp site.
Looking up to the peaks Rondoy (5870 m) and Ninashanca (5607 m), from the camp site.			Another look back at 'Copper' mountain, before we go over our first mountain pass.
Celebrating the brow of the first pass, Cacanampunta, 4650 meters. This pass is on the continental divide, so from now on the rivers all flow into the river Amazon.			The camp sites were all on grass, in stunning settings. On day 6, this is at a place called Janca (4250 m). The mountains are Ninashanca, Rondoy, Jirishanca (6094 m) and El Toro (5965 m).
The mountains reflect in the calm waters of lake Mitococha at Janca.			Day 6 was a short day, allowing us some exploration of the area after lunch. Viv takes a ride on Sol de Oro (Golden Sun), guided by Zoro (chief muleteer). The rest of us walk.
The start of day 7, and a clearer view of mounts Ninashanca, Rondoy, Jirishanca, and El Toro, as we leave camp.			Even without the snow peaks, this is a beautiful peaceful place.
Top of Carhuac pass (4600 m) on day 7, and a partial view of Yerupaja, at 6634 meters the highest mountain in the Huayhuash, and second highest mountain in the world in the tropics.			Part the way down from Carhuac pass, and we meet our cooks, Victor facing the camera, and his assistant Jose, who have prepared lunch for us in the perfect place.
Perfect views of the mountains ...			... and down below us is lake Carhuacocha, by which our camp site is sited.
Peter Patton and I are off on a small (but fateful) detour, visiting a further glacial lake on our way to the camp site.			The camp site is at the far end of lake Carhuacocha, at the right.
We get a view of the large morraine, and a further lake to be visited tomorrow.			This isolated lake is next to the snout of the Yerupaja's eastern glacier.
That's me in front of the avalanche heap at the base of the glacier.			And this picture is actually taken from the avalanche heap itself.
The next part is not recorded in pictures. On the way back to camp, I try jumping across the substantial glacial stream, miss my footing, and end up in the drink with a minor gash to the leg. That will teach me !! maybe. The water also shorts my camera battery, so all photos from hereon are courtesy my co-trekker Peter Patton.			The sunsets were always worth watching, as the sun lingers on the mountain tops.
After sunset, we rely on the relative cosiness of the mess tent, where we take our evening meal about 7:00 pm, and usually card a game of cards or two afterwards.
Days 9 to 12 - Southern part of the circuit
Each day after we leave camp, about 7:30 am, the muleteers pack up the donkeys, and come after us. They soon catch up, and continue on to set up the next camp.			We don't pass many dwellings, but this is typical of a farmer's dwelling, who tends his cattle, and maybe fishes, in these winter months.
Day 9. We walk up another gorgeous valley towards the Carniceiro pass (4575 m).			... and take anothyer group photo.
Once over Carniceiro pass, thye views change again. This is a view of the Raura range, just East of the Huayhuash range.			In the Huayhuash range a new peak is very striking. Santa Rosa has an amazingly true pyramidal peak, from all directions.
More peaks from the Huayhuash.			This afternoon Jens and I take the opportunity with Pepe (pictured) to bathe in the local hot springs. This is a real treat. They mix the hot water with cold water to produce a large bathing area at normal hot bath temperature. Wonderful.
Day 10, and we climb yet another pass, the Cuyoc, which at 5030 meters is actually our highest point on the trek. Every pass provides new striking views of the mountains.			The way down may not look very steep, but it was hard to maintain your footing on the loose rubble of the path.
There's always something different in the rock formations. Just an odd outcrop on the way down.			We are heading for our next camp in the Guanacpata valley, at 4350 meters.
These are the Southern peaks of Huayhuash (Carnicero 5960m, Jurau 5674m, and Trapecio 5673m), as we walk up the valley towards lake Jurau.			The same peaks.
Another ice-laden peak, Sarapo (6127 m) comes into view as we go up the valley .			The tops of the ranges have fascinating detail in the way the ice forms in fluted layers.
This is our camp site near lake Jurau, where we stay for 2 nights.			Day 13. Officially a rest day, but never fear, we are off to see Joe Simpson's base camp site, and more to the point, some views of Siula Grande, the mountain he climbed, and then fell into one of its glaciers. This rock is where he made his base camp.
While Joe went to climb his mountain, instead we climbed a large morraine from which to obtain a good view.			The views of Siula Grande were terrific. Siula Grande is the smallish looking peak, dead centre, and is 6344m. The peak to the right is Siula Chico (6265m). Joe Simpson and Simon Yates descended the skyline ridge to the leftmost point, which is where Joe fell.
.. which is close to the right side of this picture. He fell into the glacier beneath, then eventually found his way out of his crevass, and crawled across the glacier, to return to his base camp, which is to the left of this picture.
Days 14 to 17 - Eastern part of the circuit
Day 16, and the Yaucha pass at 4800m. More unusual rock formations to be seen.			From the top of the pass we climb to a view point, for an amazing panorama of the northern Huayhuash peaks. This is Rondoy, 5870 meters.
Next is Jirishanca, 6094 meters.			.. then Jerupaja Chico, at 6089 meters.
.. then El Toro, at 5985 meters.			Turn around, and we can see in the distance the Cordilliera Blanco.
Back at the top of the pass, Jose is very dependable. He always has Sol de Oro with him in case anyone flags, but none of us had to go by horseback.			Day 17 is another rest day. In the early afternoon a treat is in store. A meal cooked in the earth is called a Pacha Manca (earth pot). It starts by heating stones in a fire.
The hot stones are reduced to a bottom layer, on which the potatoes are then placed.			The fresh lamb and chicken meat has been wrapped in foil, and is also placed among the hot stones.
Reeds, and cardboard are then placed above the food and stones.			Earth is heaped on to keep the whole oven hot.
This is done comprehensively, and the whole is allowed to cook for 50 minutes.			The earth is then cleanly removed.
.. to reveal the still hot stones, and the cooked meal.			It is apparently necessary to elect a Godfather to taste and approve the meat, before it can then be served. I'm the Godfather.
Sunset on the mountains. Lake Jahuacocha in the foreground.			The sun lights up the clouds even after the sun has set on the mountains.
We have one last pass, the Sambunya (4750 m) as we return towards Pocpa.			That's our last camp site down there near the mining road, where we started the circuit.
The return to Lima
Day 19. As we take the mining road away from Huayhuash, we get some fine views of the range as a whole, from the north.			Day 20. Now we have cleaned up, and enjoy a good meal out in Huarez.
Pepe takes us to see the Church of San Pedro. It has a very ornate baroque interior.			We also visit the Church of San Francisco and its extensive catacombs.
We see the striking statue of Peru's conqueror, Francisco Pizarro, which the government have moved from its central position to a site just outside the old city walls. Curiously, we also learn that the statue was actually of Don Cortez, but Pizarro was deemed to have looked much the same!			We also see the presidential palace.
.. where they make a fine ritual out of changing the guard, mid-day.
Children and other locals
The children were entirely happy to have their pictures taken,			... they enjoy seeing the pictures once you have taken them,
and enjoy being rewarded with a sweet or two.			More children.
The women often do their washing in the local streams.			The country women would usually dress traditionally, and would always be spinning cotton. they enjoy seeing the pictures once you have taken them,
Some of the fauna
Donkeys are the favourite beasts of burden in these parts, and they bear it well.			The cara cara is a small eagle, quite often seen at close quarters.
The condor will certainly be seen, though hard to photograph.			These are Andean geese.
This is an Andean ibis.			.. and this is the viscacha, a cross between a rabbit and a squirrel, living in among rocks around 4000 meters up.
There are plenty of mountain cows. Some get a bit of decoration.			These are egrets on the Pacific shore.
Some of the flora
Many flowers have no stems, so shine out straight from the ground, like this dandelion variety.			There is also a form of cacti which grows very close to the ground.
Some cacti are particularly spiky.			More normal cacti also grow in the lower elevations.
A pretty blue mountain flower.			The mountain lupins were particularly profuse at the right altitude, and gave a lovely scent to the air.
The quenoal tree is interesting. It is the highest growing tree in the world, forming forests up to 5000 meters above sea level. The red growth in the trees is actually a flowering parasite.